With their arrow-like fins and shimmering scales, angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) are the absolute stars of any aquarium. Originating from the Amazon region, this tropical fish is part of the cichlid family. If you have an aquarium with warmer water, these fish can be perfectly kept in your home.
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The term ‘angelfish’ actually comes from mathematics and physics, symbolising a specific arrow direction. This metaphorically represents the appearance of the ornamental fish. Its long fins stretch back from its body and, coupled with a pointed snout, create an arrow or triangle shape. The fish also has a shorter fin on its tail, which it can move horizontally.
The scales of the angelfish shimmer in various colours. Notably, the fish typically has four black horizontal stripes. However, there are specimens without these bands. One of the stripes passes through the eye area, while another extends to the tail fin. Angelfish generally reach a length of 15cm and a height of up to 25cm.
Angelfish belong to the cichlid family and are divided into three types. In the wild, you will mainly find the regular angelfish, the Leopold’s angelfish, and the altum angelfish, distinguishable by their height. Additionally, there are numerous breeding varieties, experimenting with different colourations. Bred angelfish come in half-black tones, veiled, golden, and marbled patterns. Blue and purple ones, as well as those with a ‘diamond’ effect and ghost angelfish with dark spots instead of stripes and a rounder body, are particularly popular.
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Angelfish were first described by researchers in the Amazon region in 1823. They populate not only the mighty Amazon River itself but also many tributaries, such as Rio Tocantins, Rio Ucayali, Rio Negro, and Rio Madeira. Besides Brazil, they are found in the rivers of Guyana, French Guiana, and Peru, especially in the Solimoes. Angelfish prefer hot, tropical freshwater, particularly in quieter rainforest rivers. They usually inhabit floodplains and riverbanks. Their preference for slightly darker, vegetated riverbeds should be considered when setting up an aquarium.
In the wild, angelfish mainly eat molluscs, larvae, insects, and smaller fish, which they actively hunt. Hence, live food is recommended in an aquarium too. Live food is generally preferable for these fish over frozen food like mosquito larvae, Artemia, and crabs. With wild-caught fish, feeding them flakes can sometimes be challenging. However, they can also eat duckweed and algae.
It’s best to seek quality advice in pet shops and buy high-quality dry food. Cheap dry food often contains substances that angelfish, with their small digestive tract, find difficult to process, leading to malnutrition, stress, and disease. It’s crucial to ensure they get enough protein and fat. Undigested waste can upset the bacterial balance in the aquarium, negatively affecting the sensitive angelfish.
Given the impressive height that adult angelfish reach, a sufficiently large aquarium is necessary. It should measure at least 150 x 60 x 60cm, double the height of the fish. The tank should hold 200 litres or more. More space is needed for more angelfish – at least 300 litres for three angelfish.
Once the aquarium is bought, it’s time to set up the habitat. A loose substrate with fine granules or sand is recommended to prevent the fish from accidentally swallowing coarse particles leading to intestinal blockages. Plants are essential as angelfish thrive in the dense vegetation of their natural habitat. Vallisneria and various wooden objects can be placed vertically to provide hiding spots. Twisted caves and large rocks offer great hiding and breeding spots. Such hidden areas are crucial for successful breeding, where eggs are laid.
The aquarium must mimic a tropical environment, with temperatures between 22°C and 32°C, ideally around 26°C. If the temperature drops to 20°C, angelfish become nervous, and diseases may occur. The pH level should be between six and seven; anything above seven can be harmful. High ammonia levels can cause poisoning in sensitive angelfish. Regular water testing is recommended to maintain a healthy environment. The total hardness should be around six, and carbonate hardness about four. Filtering is best done with added peat to keep the water clean and maintain a stable bacterial balance. A pump system can additionally be installed.
Outside of breeding periods, angelfish are relatively peaceful and get along well with their kind. Young fish should ideally be kept in groups of up to eight. Even if these fish know each other well, territorial behaviour may occur, making hiding spots vital. A territory size of about 50cm radius is typical during breeding. Once a pair is formed, they may bite and chase others, which in small tanks can be deadly.
Tankmates should not be too small to avoid being seen as prey by the angelfish. Recommended tankmates include large tetras like diamond tetras, cherry spot tetras, and Colombian tetras. Medium-sized plecos and catfish can also cohabitate with angelfish but should not be too large. Other options include Congo tetras, blue neons, barbs, and butterfly cichlids.
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Angelfish are relatively robust but can be very sensitive to chemical and biological changes in the water. In captivity, they can live between ten and twelve years with proper care. The biggest threat comes from flagellates, a form of protozoa, which attack the intestinal tract, causing malnutrition and later damaging the intestinal wall. Massive infestations occur when the immune system is weakened by excessive stress.
Flagellates are usually present in small numbers but multiply uncontrollably when immune defences are low. The disease manifests externally as white mucus discharge, remnants of the intestinal wall. Immediate action is needed: infected fish should be quarantined in a tank with warm water (around 35°C) to kill the pathogen. Medications like metronidazole are also necessary, dosed at one gram per litre for two days.
Angelfish are also susceptible to fish diseases such as fish tuberculosis and white spot disease, identified by white spots on the skin. They can also suffer from fin rot and dropsy. Whirling disease, caused by a fungal infection, affects multiple organs like the liver and kidneys via the bloodstream. The fish stop eating, lose balance, and later develop growths on the skin. This highly contagious disease requires immediate separation of affected fish.
Well-maintained aquariums rarely have tapeworms and threadworms, which mainly inhabit the stomach, liver, and muscle tissue, causing anaemia and emaciation. Special medications from pet shops or vets can treat these. More dangerous are parasitic sporozoa, causing angelfish disease, leading to cysts on the gills. This mostly affects younger angelfish, especially those under one year.
The infected fish exhibit strong spinning movements and seem disoriented. Unfortunately, there is no medication, so good prophylaxis and hygiene in the tank are crucial. Avoid adding infected fish to an existing population.
A harmonious angelfish pair will naturally form in a group. They lay eggs on large leaves and exhibit intensive brood care, protecting the eggs aggressively. Larvae hatch two days after laying.
If the fish start eating the eggs, they should be removed and the fry raised separately.
The first place to buy angelfish is a pet shop or an experienced aquarist. These shops usually offer bred specimens and sometimes wild-caught ones, providing comprehensive advice and recommendations for the right aquarium. Alternatively, many breeders offer their fish online. While some online sellers can sometimes be disappointing, specialised ornamental fish sales sites are professional and safe.
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